For quite some time now, this western mountain valley has been luring in a strong set of travelers who know that Jackson Hole has some of the best slopes to swish down in the whole country, so much so it rivals big-hitting hot spots like Aspen or Vail. But, beyond its snowy season – for as charming as it is, it’s restricting in its winter activities with temperatures hitting well below freezing – it’s summer that brings out the best colours of the sagebrush and a belt buckle-wearing crowd who are in town for western bars, the mountain hospitality and the coffee. It helps that it’s incredibly beautiful, so much so that philanthropist and conservationist John D. Rockefeller, Jr. fell so in love with the Tetons in the 1920s that he set out to secretly buy the land, preserving and protecting the wildlife and in turn, donating it to the National Park Service. Now, over four million visitors head to this part of the world every year, and its big sister Yellowstone just next door for a glimpse of a bison, moose or bear, or to swim in glacial lakes by day while at night, it’s dancing with the cowboys in town and feasting on sushi so good you’d be hard pressed to remember Wyoming is landlocked.
Things to do in Jackson Hole
Outdoorsy folk should spend their days out in the parks: hiking through Grand Teton, swimming in Jenny Lake or hopping in the car for a full deep dive into Yellowstone National Park. It’s worth carving out some time for this one, as most of this landscape isn’t seen by the road. Scenic pull-out spots for snap-happy camera-wearing travellers include Schwabacher Landing and Mormon Row – the latter is a pretty crumbling set of barns framed by the mountains. Go at sunrise or sunset for both. If you’re in town for summer – highly recommended – book in for a night at the rodeo. It’s kitsch, it’s cool, it’s pure Americana.
Where to stay
Right there in Jackson town, this modern motel entered the hotel scene 2017 as one of the more affordable spots to bed down. But even with the under £200-a-night price tag, there’s no compromise on design. Built over a former blacksmith, the space was taken over by Brooklyn-based design firm Studio Tack. Rooms are filled with thick woollen throws, cast iron beds, two-tone walls and some cute bunkbeds for the kids. The mercantile shop downstairs is also worth a mosey about in.
This could claim the most beautiful view of any of the hotels around here. High up on a butte overlooking both the valley and the Tetons, it’s a place to hide out rather than be in on the action. The interiors are timeless; soft browns, sweet-smelling woods, large lofty beds and a pool that is easily the only place to be when the sun is hot. It’s been around for quite some time, which is somewhat reflected in its slightly dated feel, but it’s pure escapism at its best, with very good cocktails to sip on at golden hour.
Over in Teton Village, this suite-only hotel doubles down as a members club. It’s on the mountain side so one for those looking for as close to ski-in, ski-out as you can get. It’s very cosy and gorgeous in all spaces – soft linens, minimalist wooden furniture, plaid fabrics. The restaurant has seen the likes of New York chefs pop in and out but it often rotates between a really strong Italian or Mexican restaurant that quickly becomes a destination in its own right. It’s fun to book in with a group, sharing the floor (a four-bed room) for a long weekend on the slopes.
Where to eat and drink
Arrive too late in the morning and you’ll risk the snaking queue at this much-loved bakery in town. Thankfully, it moves quickly but regulars return for the seasonal lattes (honey lavender being the favourite) and pastries to buy by the box. At lunch, it’s super-fresh salads and a very good grilled chicken sandwich on house sourdough.
Jackson excels in sushi restaurants and Kampai manages to lead the pack – just. When doors open at 5pm, diners (with reservations) are already waiting outside. The best seat though? It’s at the counter where a flock of razor-sharp knife-carrying chefs thinly slice tuna, salmon and seabass for saucy sashimi plates and nigiri platters. It’s excellent and makes sense the head chef trained in Tokyo for a number of years.
Loved-up couples and families with tots in tow pile into tables at this Italian trattoria turned western restaurant that’s part of the Anvil group’s cool umbrella. The menu is hearty with oversized meatballs, elk bolognese and a very good wood-fired trout. Cocktails were curated by New York’s legendary Death & Co too.
An institution through and through, this cowboy bar has been around since the thirties. It’s kitsch and a little gimmicky but it’s always a good time. Residents and travellers bump knees on the saddle bar seats or make friends playing pool and drinking a local lager. Plus, it’s the best spot for live music.
No restaurant here, but rather a very sophisticated petrol station shop. The ideal spot to know when heading out for a road trip up to Montana or coming into Wyoming through the Idaho pass. They make sloshies (spiked slushies) to go, delicious chicken salad and have cool merch to boot. A place to stock up.
It’s a well-oiled machine in here with walls decked out in quirky taxidermy (bison, big horn sheep) and possibly the best steak in the whole caldera. It feels a little like an Argentinian gaucho grill and the flame grilling matches. It’s no-frills with very big plates.
